Woven interlining fabric



16, 1940. B. HENSCHKE WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC Filed Jan. 7, 195a Patented July 16, 1940 "v UNITED STATES WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC Bruno Henschke, Forst, Lausitz, Germany, as-

sig'nor to Hansel & O0. Aktiengesellschai't,

Fors't, Lausitz, Germany Application January 7, 1938, Serial No. 183,889-

Germany May 24, 1935 9 Claims (01. 139-427) My invention relates to woven interlining fabcs, that is to say, to fabrics which tailors employ for the production of stiffening pieces, such as are arranged in garments, costume jackets,'coats and v 5 similar outer garments, between the cloth and the lining. stiffening strands, which consist of twisted hair such as horsehair. 'These known stiffening strands are made by arranging a plurality of 10 hairsparallel with a foundation thread consisting of. cotton for example, and winding around the whole one or more fine threads, such as cotton threads. These stiffening strandsin consequence of their content of animal hairs have a certain stiffness and elasticity. When such stiffening strands are employed in the weft or in the warp, or in both the weft and the warp of a fabric, the fabric has a certain stiffness, combined with a certain resilience, and is par- 20 ticularly suitable for use as an interlining fabric. In the production-of stiffening insertions of the above mentioned kind, the interlining fabric utilized for this purpose must be provided with numerous incisions, as a result of which strips 25 of fabric of very small breadth are frequently obtained. Particularly in cutting out the shoulders, strips are obtained in which the breadth is less than 5 centimetres. In the shoulder, however, the changes of shape that the cloth and 3 the interlining fabric undergo, in consequence.

of the movements of the body, are particularly large. Consequently the horsehair or other hair in the stiffening strands exhibitshere, to a particularly marked extent, the phenomenon of 5- working their way out of the thread wound around them and sticking out from the cloth.

I have discovered that it is possible to obviate this disadvantage by employing, in the manufacture of the stiffening strands that contain 40 animal hair, in place of the smooth textile fibres hitherto customary, fibres of the kind known as spiral yarn. Spiral yarn is made from smooth uniform textile fibres, by twisting together for instance two smooth threads which have oppo- 45 site spinning twists. These spiral yarns are produced by the usual twisting process, and can be manufactured in any count. The characteristic feature of this spiral yarn is the fact that the axis of the thread is twisted like a screw of very flne pitch. If such spiral yarn is employed according to my invention as a longitudinal or foundation thread or as a wrapping thread in the formation of stiffening strands and such stiffening used in the formation of fabric satis- 5' factory protection is afforded against the hairs .These interlining fabrics contain coming out of the fabric. The close turns of the spiral yarn lead to a good anchoring of the' stiff filaments in the fabric, and also hold the animal hairs more firmly than is the case when smooth threads are employed as longitudinal- 5 threads or as wrapping threads. Since the spiral turns are very close, this action is noticeable even in very short lengths.

A stiffening fabric, the stiffening strands of' which are produced by employing spiral yarn is hardly distinguishable, as-regards its springiness, its weight, and the uniformity and thickness of its walls, from the corresponding stiffening fabrics, the stiffening strands of which are made by employing smooth yarns as hitherto usual. The stiffening fabric according to my invention has however greater adhesion of the stiffening filaments in the fabric, this higher adhesion also being present even in very narrow pieces of fabric. i

The invention is diagrammatically illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawing, in which i Figure 1 shows on an enlarged scale a stiffening strand in which the longitudinal thread consists according to my invention of spiral yarn;

Figure 2 shows on an enlarged scale a stiffening strand in which the wrapping thread con-. sists according to my invention of spiral yarn; 3

Figure 3 shows diagrammatically a piece of stiffening fabric in which the stiffening strands according to my invention are employed as weft threads;

Figure 4 shows a, piece of stiffening fabric in which the stiffening strands according to my 5 invention are in the, warp;

Figure 5 is an enlarged view of a stiffening strand wherein the wrapping thread and the longitudinal thread both consist of spiral yarn;

Figure 6 illustrates a piece of fabric wherein 40 the novel stiffening strands are employed as weft and warp'threads;

Figure 7 is an enlarged detail view of the spiral yarn. a r In the piece of stiffening strand represented 5 on an enlarged scale in Figure 1, the so-called longitudinal or foundation thread a consists of spiral yarn. b, b are animal hairs, preferably consisting of horsehair. The whole is held together by a wrappingthread c. The thread 0 consists of smooth yarn. Two or more such' wrapping threads may be provided if desired.

Referring to Figure 7, the spiral yarn usedin the stiffening strands consists of a thread if lying substantially straight and about which is wrapped may be of multiple construction.

- or spirally wound a second thread e.- Thus, a screw-like surface is provided on the yarn which affords great adhesion or anchoring for the stiff filaments and prevents the latter from working out of the strand.

The piece of strand represented inFigure 2 is distinguished from the piece represented in Figure 1 by the fact that the longitudinal or foundation thread (1 consists of smooth yarn, whereas the wrapping thread 0 consists of spiral yarn. It is also within the scope of my invention for the longitudinal thread and the wrapping thread both to be of spiral yarn as shown in Figure 5 wherein the longitudinal thread a and thewrapping thread 0 are both of spiral form.

Figures 3, 4 and 6 show the employment of stiffening strands according to Figure 1 or 2 or 5 in the manufacture of stiffening fabrics.

Figure 3 is a fabric in which the weft threads and warp threads consist of cotton yarn. Every fifth weft thread f f f and so forth is a stiffening strand, in which either the longitudinal thread or the wrapping thread or both consist of spiral yarn. The warp threads k, which, in interlining fabrics, are always in plain or tabby weave, engage firmly in the sawtoothshaped notches of the spiral yarn of the stiffening strands f F, I and so forth, and thereby effectually prevent the stiffening strands from pulling out, even when the fabric is cut in the direction of the warp in two positions located very close together. I

In the stiffening fabric illustrated in Figure 4, the stiffening strands are arranged in the warp. Every third warp thread 10 W, k and so forth is a strand according to Figure 1 or Figure 2, or the stiffening strand according to Fig- 5 in which all the threads except the hairs consist of spiral yarn. It lies within the scope of my invention to combine the arrangements illustrated in Fig ures 3 and 4, that is to say, to employ stiffening strands containing spiral yarn both as weft threads and as warp threads as shown in Fig. 6.

While I have shown and described the spiral yarn as being preferably composed of two threads, one lying substantially straight and the other spirally wrapped around the former, it is equally within the scope of spiral yarn wherein each of the threads d and e WhatIclaim is:

1. A woven fabric containing stifiening strands formed of a continuous longitudinal thread with animal hairs arranged along the continuous thread, said hairs being bound to the longitudinal thread by means of a wrapping thread, one of said threads comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of at least two threads, the first of said last namedthreads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first.

2. A woven fabric adapted for interlining garinents containing warp and weft strands, at least one of said strands comprising a continuous longitudinal thread, resilient filaments arranged along said longitudinal thread, and a wrapping thread wound around said filaments and said longitudinal thread to bind the same together,

one of said'threads comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of at least two -threads, the first of said last named threads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first.

my invention to provide a,

3. A woven stiffening fabric composed of weft and warp strands wherein some of the strands comprise a longitudinal thread, a plurality of animal hairs extending along the longitudinal thread, and a wrapping thread wound around said hairs and the longitudinal thread so as to bind the same together and provide a stiffening strand, one of the threads of said strand comprising. a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of at least two threads, thefirst of said last named threads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first.

4. A woven fabric composed of weft and warp strands, certain of saidweft strands comprising a continuous longitudinal thread, a plurality of animal hairs extending along said longitudinal thread, and a wrapping thread wound around said hairs and said longitudinal thread so as to bind the same together and provide a stiffening strand, one of the threads of said strand comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of at least two threads, the first of said last named threads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first.

, 5. A woven fabric composed of weft and warp strands, certain of said warp strands comprising a continuous longitudinal thread, a plurality of animal hairs extending along said longitudinal thread, and a wrapping thread wound around said hairs and said longitudinal thread so as to bind the same together and provide a stiffening strand, one of the threads of said strand comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of at least two threads, the first of said last named threads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first. I

6. A woven fabric composed of weft and warp strands wherein certain of said weft and warp strands comprise a continuous longitudinal thread, a plurality of animal hairs extending along said longitudinal thread, and a wrapping thread wound around said hairs and said longitudinal thread so as to bind the same together and provide a stiifening strand, one of the threads of said strand comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of atleast two threads, the first of said last named threads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last ganged threads being spirally wrapped about the '7. A woven fabric composed of weft and warp strands wherein certain of said strands comprise a longitudinal thread, a plurality of animal hairs extending along the longitudinal thread, and a smooth wrapping thread wound around said hairs and the longitudinal thread so as to bind thesame together and provide a stiffening strand, said longitudinal thread comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed of at least two threads, the first of said last named threads lying substantially straight, andthe second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first.

8. A woven stiffening fabric composed of weft and warp strands wherein certain of the strands comprise a smooth longitudinal thread, a plu- I ing a yarn having a spiral axis and being formed .oiat least two threads, the first oi'said last named .threads lying substantially straight, and the second of saidv last named threads being spirally wrapped about the first.

1o thread, and a wrapping thread wound around said hairs and said longitudinal thread so as to bind the same together and provide a stiflening strand, said longitudinal thread and said wrapping thread each comprising a yarn having a spiral axis and beingformed of at least two threads, the first of said last named threads lying substantially straight, and the second of said last named threads being spirally wrapped about the BRUNO HENSCHKE. 

